Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
